Category: Buying Guides

A practical checklist for buying an outboard motor online — shaft length, horsepower, brand fit, and the questions to ask before you place an order.

A plain-English look at Mercury Racing outboards, sterndrives and drives we stock — 450R, 565, Bravo One XR, M6/M8 and the 1100 — plus what to confirm before you buy.

Pitch, diameter and aluminum vs stainless explained simply. Learn how to choose a boat propeller, and when to ask for help matching one to your motor.

“Which brand is best?” We hear it all the time, and we’ll be honest: there’s no single winner. Yamaha, Suzuki, Honda and Tohatsu all build four-stroke outboards that boaters around the world rely on every day. The better question is which brand is best for your boat, your water and where you live. Here’s how we’d think about it if we were buying for ourselves. Start with what matters more than the badge Before comparing logos, look at these. They tend to make a bigger difference to your day-to-day experience than the brand itself: Local service and parts. The best motor in the world is a headache if nobody nearby can work on it or get parts. Ask local mechanics and marinas which brands they service most. Fit for your boat. Your hull’s maximum horsepower, transom height (shaft length) and weight all narrow the list fast. Rigging and controls. If you’re repowering, sticking with the brand you already have can sometimes save on controls, gauges and harnesses. Ask before you switch. How you use the boat. A light tender, a fishing skiff and an offshore center console need very different things. Yamaha Yamaha is one of the best-known names in outboards and covers a huge range, from small portables to big V6 and larger offshore motors. Because they’re so widespread, many mechanics know them well, which is a real plus in a lot of places. Worth a look: the portable Yamaha F2.5 and F4, the Yamaha 15HP, the mid-range F90 and the F250 V6. See all Yamaha outboards. Suzuki Suzuki also offers a full lineup, from tiny portables up to large offshore outboards. Their range is a popular choice for everything from small aluminum boats to twin-engine offshore setups. Worth a look: the DF2.5, DF20A, DF60A, DF140B, DF200SS and DF350A. See all Suzuki outboards. Honda Honda Marine builds four-stroke outboards using the company’s long automotive engine experience. Their range is especially strong in the small and mid-size motors many owners use for tenders, sailboats, pontoons and fishing boats. Worth a look: the Honda BF2.3, BF8, BF20, BF40 and BF50. See all Honda outboards. Tohatsu Tohatsu has been building outboards for a long time and is well known for its portable and small-to-mid-size motors, with larger models in the range too. Their lineup includes some less common options, like a jet outboard for shallow water and a propane-powered portable. Worth a look: the Tohatsu 6HP, 5HP propane, 25HP jet, 30HP, MFS115 and BFT250D. See all Tohatsu outboards. A few common questions Is one brand more reliable than the others? Honestly, all four have loyal owners who’ve run their motors for years. In practice, reliability comes down far more to how the motor is looked after: regular servicing, fresh fuel, flushing after saltwater use and the right prop. A well-maintained motor from any of these brands will usually treat you better than a neglected one from the “best” brand. Should I stick with the brand I already have? Often it’s worth considering. If your controls, gauges and wiring are in good shape and compatible, staying with the same brand can make a repower simpler. That said, if a different brand suits your boat better or has better support where you live, it can be worth switching. Just factor in any rigging changes. What about twin engines? If you’re running twins, you’ll want a matched pair, usually the same model with counter-rotating props where the manufacturer offers it. Ask us which models are available as a set. Does the brand change resale value? It can depend a lot on your local market. A brand that’s common and well supported in your area tends to be easier to sell later, simply because more buyers and mechanics know it. That’s another reason to check what’s popular at nearby marinas. Can you help me compare specific models? Yes. Send us the two or three models you’re thinking about and your boat details, and we’ll go through the manufacturer specs with you so you’re comparing like for like. How to compare two motors side by side Once you’ve got a shortlist, compare the actual models rather than the brands. For each one, check the manufacturer’s published specs for: Horsepower and whether it’s within your boat’s rating Shaft length options Dry weight, compared with what’s on your transom now Starting (manual or electric) and steering (tiller or remote) Alternator output, if you run electronics The manufacturer’s own warranty terms for your region And ask us about what’s actually available and what it will take to ship to you. That often settles it. Still working out how much power you need? Read our guides on outboard horsepower, matching a motor to your boat size and outboard maintenance basics. Want a second opinion? Tell us your boat, how you use it and which brands you’re weighing up. We’ll give you an honest take and a quote on the models that fit. Get a quote  |  WhatsApp Sales  |  Call +1 (872) 293-4196  |  Email Contact@allmarinemotors.com

When people start shopping for a new engine, they usually already know roughly how much power they want. What trips them up is the type: outboard, sterndrive or inboard. They all push a boat through the water, but they’re built and installed very differently, and that changes how your boat feels, how you maintain it and what kind of repower makes sense. Here’s a plain-English rundown of the three, so you can figure out which direction to look before you start comparing models. The quick version Outboard: the whole package (engine, gearcase and prop) hangs off the transom as one unit. You steer by turning the entire motor. Sterndrive (also called inboard/outboard or I/O): the engine sits inside the boat near the stern, and a drive unit (the “outdrive”) passes through the transom. You steer by turning the drive. Inboard: the engine sits inside the hull and turns a shaft that runs through the bottom of the boat to the propeller. Steering is done with a separate rudder. Most of the time, your boat already decides this for you. A hull built for an outboard has a transom made for it; a hull built for a sterndrive or inboard has an engine compartment, mounts and through-hull openings in specific places. Switching from one type to another is a much bigger job than swapping like for like, so start by asking what your boat was designed for. Outboards Outboards are the most common choice on small and mid-size boats, and they’re increasingly popular on bigger offshore boats too, often in twin or triple setups. Why people like them: They free up space inside the boat, since there’s no engine box taking up the deck. You can tilt the whole motor up out of the water, which is handy for shallow water, trailering and keeping the lower unit out of saltwater when you’re docked. Access for routine service is usually easier, because everything is right there on the transom. Repowering is generally simpler: if your hull is rated for it, you’re mostly changing the motor, controls and rigging. Things to keep in mind: the motor is out in the open on the back of the boat, and on some boats it can get in the way of a swim platform or fishing from the stern. Bigger outboards are heavy, so the weight on the transom matters. We carry a wide range of outboard motors, from small portables like the Suzuki DF2.5 up to big offshore motors like the Yamaha F250 and Suzuki DF350A. Sterndrives A sterndrive is a bit of a hybrid. The engine lives inside, usually under a hatch at the back of the boat, and the drive outside works a lot like the lower half of an outboard. You’ll see them a lot on runabouts, bowriders and cruisers. Why people like them: A clean transom, which leaves room for a full-width swim platform. That’s a big deal for families and watersports. The engine is tucked away inside, so the boat often looks and sounds a little more refined. The drive can still be trimmed and tilted, so you get some of the flexibility of an outboard. Things to keep in mind: because the drive sits in the water and has seals, bellows and moving parts, it needs regular attention, especially in saltwater. Service access to the engine can be tighter than on an outboard. And when you repower, you’ll want to check whether your existing drive is compatible with the new engine or whether it should be replaced too. Take a look at our sterndrive engines, such as the MerCruiser 4.3 MPI, MerCruiser 4.5L and MerCruiser 6.2L, plus drives like the Bravo Three outdrive. Inboards With an inboard, everything except the shaft, prop and rudder is inside the hull. They’re common on ski and wakeboard boats, sportfishing boats, trawlers, yachts and many work boats, and diesel inboards are a mainstay on larger vessels. Why people like them: The weight sits low and toward the middle of the boat, which can help with balance and ride. Nothing hangs off the back, so the stern is completely clear. On ski and wake boats, an inboard setup puts the prop under the boat, away from riders at the back. Diesel inboards are a popular choice for boats that run long hours or carry heavy loads. Things to keep in mind: you can’t tilt an inboard’s prop out of the water, so shallow water and trailering need more care. Shaft alignment, engine mounts and through-hull fittings all matter at installation. A repower is usually a bigger project, and it’s worth having a qualified marine installer look at the boat first. Browse our inboard engines, including the MerCruiser T6200, Volvo Penta D4-300 and Volvo Penta D6-370. For bigger boats, we also carry Caterpillar marine diesels like the Cat C12. So which one is right for you? A few questions usually point the way: What is the boat built for? This is the big one. Matching the original design is almost always the simplest and safest path. How will you use it? Fishing, shallow water and trailering lean toward outboards. Family cruising with a big swim platform often suits a sterndrive. Watersports, long-range cruising and heavy work boats often go inboard. Fresh or saltwater? Every type can work in saltwater, but think about how easy it will be to rinse, flush and keep the drive or lower unit out of the water. Who will service it? Ask what local mechanics are comfortable working on, and how easy parts are to get where you keep the boat. Repower or new build? On a repower, ask about controls, gauges, steering and whether the drive, shaft or prop needs to change too. If you’re still deciding on power, our guides on choosing outboard horsepower and matching an outboard to your boat size are a good next read. Not sure? Just ask Send us your boat’s make, model, length and what’s in it now, and we’ll help you narrow

“I’ve got a 17-foot boat, what motor should I get?” It’s one of the most common questions we get, and the honest answer is: it depends on more than the length. Two boats the same length can weigh very different amounts and be rated for very different power. Still, boat size is a great place to start. Here’s how we think about it, from small tenders up to bigger offshore boats. First, the numbers that actually decide it Before looking at any engine, gather three things: The capacity plate. It shows the maximum horsepower and load your hull is rated for. Never go over it. Transom height. This sets the shaft length you need. Measure it before you order. A motor with the wrong shaft length won’t sit right in the water. Typical load. How many people, how much gear, how much fuel. A loaded boat needs more power to perform well. Dinghies, tenders and small inflatables For a tender or small inflatable, you’re usually looking at a small portable tiller motor: light enough to carry and clamp on by hand. Weight matters as much as power here, because you’ll be lifting it. Check your inflatable’s max HP rating and pick something comfortably within it. Options in this range include the Suzuki DF2.5, Yamaha F2.5, Yamaha F4 and Tohatsu 6HP. Jon boats, skiffs and small fishing boats Small aluminum boats and skiffs often run mid-size tiller motors. A tiller keeps things simple and saves space; remote steering is more comfortable on longer runs. If you plan to fish shallow water, it’s worth thinking about how the motor tilts and whether a jet outboard makes sense for your water. Popular picks here include the Suzuki DF20A, Tohatsu 30HP, Suzuki DF40A and Mercury 50ELPT. Family runabouts, pontoons and bay boats Once you’re carrying a family, pulling a tuber or covering open water, you’re typically into remote-control motors in the mid-horsepower range. Pontoons in particular can be heavy once they’re loaded, so don’t size purely on length. Look at the Yamaha F90, Suzuki DF115SS, Tohatsu MFS115, Suzuki DF140B and Mercury 150XL. Larger center consoles and offshore boats Bigger, heavier hulls that run offshore usually call for high-horsepower motors, and often twins. Two engines give you redundancy if one has a problem far from the dock, but they cost more upfront and to maintain. A single larger motor is simpler and lighter. Your hull’s rating and how far out you go will usually decide this one. In this class we carry motors like the Suzuki DF200SS, Yamaha F250, Tohatsu BFT250D, Suzuki DF300AP and Suzuki DF350A. A few more things to check Controls and rigging: repowering? Ask whether your existing controls, gauges and steering will work with the new motor. Engine weight: a heavier motor changes how the boat sits and trims. Compare against what you have now. Propeller: the right prop makes a big difference to performance. Want to go deeper on power? Read how to choose outboard horsepower and our 4-stroke vs 2-stroke guide. Send us your boat details Tell us the make, model, length and what’s on your capacity plate, and we’ll suggest a few motors that fit. No pressure, just honest advice. Get a quote  |  WhatsApp Sales  |  Call +1 (872) 293-4196

An outboard doesn’t ask for much, but it does ask for a little attention on a regular basis. Most of the breakdowns we hear about didn’t come out of nowhere. They started as a skipped flush, old fuel sitting in the tank all winter, or a prop that took a hit and never got looked at. The good news is that the basics are easy, and most of them take less time than launching the boat. Here’s the routine we’d suggest to any owner. One rule before we start: your owner’s manual is the final word. Service intervals, oil grades and parts differ from brand to brand and model to model, so check the book for yours. After every trip: flush and look it over If you run in salt or brackish water, flush the engine with fresh water after each outing. Salt and silt build up in the cooling passages, and that’s how overheating problems start. Many motors have a flush port; others need flush muffs over the water intake. Your manual will tell you which. While it runs, check that the tell-tale (the little stream of water from the side of the cowling) is flowing steadily. A weak or missing stream is your early warning that something in the cooling system needs attention. Then take two minutes to look around: any fuel smell, loose hoses, frayed wires, or fishing line wrapped around the prop shaft? Fishing line in particular can work its way in and damage the seals, so it’s worth pulling off right away. Take care of your fuel Old or contaminated fuel causes a big share of hard starts and rough running. A few habits help a lot: Buy fuel from a busy station and don’t let it sit in the boat for months. Use a fuel stabilizer if the boat will sit for a while. Check the fuel/water separating filter and replace it as the manual recommends. Look at the fuel line and primer bulb for cracks or soft spots. Oil, filters and gear lube Four-stroke outboards need engine oil and filter changes on a schedule, usually based on hours run or once a season, whichever comes first. Use the oil grade your manufacturer specifies. We stock genuine Mercury 4-stroke oil (10W-30) and 25W-40 if you run a Mercury. Don’t forget the lower unit. Gear lube should be changed at the interval in your manual. When you drain it, look at the old oil: milky or creamy lube usually means water is getting past a seal, and that’s something to have checked before it turns into a gearcase repair. Check the propeller Pull the prop now and then. Look for dings, bent blades and anything wrapped around the shaft. Even a small bend can cause vibration and cost you performance and fuel. Grease the shaft splines before you put it back on, and make sure the nut and cotter pin are secure. If your prop is chewed up, a replacement is often one of the cheapest ways to get a boat running right again. Browse our propellers or ask us to help match one to your motor. Battery, anodes and the little things Battery: keep terminals clean and tight, and keep it charged, especially over the off-season. Anodes: sacrificial anodes protect the motor from corrosion. Replace them when they’re worn down, as your manual describes. Grease points: steering and tilt components have grease fittings. A few pumps at the recommended interval keeps things moving freely. Spark plugs: inspect or replace them on the schedule in your manual. Putting it away for the winter If your boat sits for the season, a proper lay-up saves headaches in spring. That usually means stabilizing the fuel, flushing the engine, changing the oil and gear lube, fogging if your manufacturer recommends it, and storing the motor trimmed down so water drains out. Every brand has its own procedure, so follow the manual or have a marine technician do it. When it’s time to repower Good maintenance adds years to an outboard, but every motor reaches a point where repairs cost more than they’re worth. If you’re there, we can help you pick a replacement. Have a look at our outboard range from Suzuki, Yamaha, Mercury and Tohatsu, or read our guide on how to choose outboard horsepower. Questions? Talk to us Need parts, oil or a new motor? Tell us what you’re running and we’ll point you in the right direction. Get a quote  |  WhatsApp Sales  |  Call +1 (872) 293-4196

If you’ve been shopping for an outboard, you’ve probably noticed that most new motors on the market are four-strokes. But plenty of boaters still run two-strokes and love them. So which one makes sense for you? Let’s skip the forum arguments and look at what really changes day to day. How they differ, in one paragraph A four-stroke engine fires once every two turns of the crankshaft and has a separate oil system, a lot like a car engine. A traditional two-stroke fires every turn and burns oil mixed with the fuel. That basic difference drives almost everything else: weight, sound, fuel use and maintenance. Fuel and oil Four-strokes are generally more fuel-efficient, especially at cruising speeds, and you don’t have to mix oil into the gas. That convenience adds up over a season. Two-strokes need oil, either premixed or through an oil injection system, so keep that in mind when you’re budgeting for running costs. Noise and smoke This one’s easy. Four-strokes are usually quieter and cleaner, with little to no smoke. If you spend long days on the water or fish in quiet spots, you’ll notice it. Weight and punch Two-strokes have traditionally been lighter for the same power and feel snappy off the line. Four-strokes carry more parts and can weigh more, which matters on small boats and light transoms. Always check the specific model’s weight against what your boat can handle. Maintenance A four-stroke needs oil changes, filters and periodic valve checks, much like a car. A two-stroke has fewer moving parts but depends on getting the oil supply right. Neither is maintenance-free. Whichever you choose, follow the manufacturer’s service schedule and use the right oil. We stock oils and parts for the major brands. Rules where you boat Some lakes and states have emissions rules that limit older carbureted two-strokes. Check your local regulations before you buy, especially if you trailer between different waters. So which should you buy? Pick a four-stroke if you want quiet running, easy fueling, and lower running costs over long days. Consider a two-stroke if weight is critical and it’s allowed where you boat. For most recreational boaters today, a modern four-stroke is the easy, sensible choice. Shop four-stroke outboards Browse our outboard motors, or go straight to Yamaha, Suzuki, Mercury, Tohatsu and Honda. Talk to a real person Tell us about your boat and how you use it, and we’ll point you to a few motors that fit. Happy to answer questions before you commit to anything. Get a quote  |  WhatsApp Sales  |  Call +1 (872) 293-4196

Ask ten boaters how much horsepower you need and you’ll hear eleven answers. Some people swear you can never have too much. Others are happy puttering around the lake with a small tiller motor. The truth is that the right number depends on your hull, your load, and how you actually use the boat, not on what your buddy has on his transom. Here’s how we’d walk through it if you called us. Start with the capacity plate Almost every boat built for the US market has a capacity plate near the helm or on the transom. It lists the maximum horsepower the hull is rated for. Treat that number as a hard ceiling. Going over it can affect handling, safety and insurance, and it’s the first thing a surveyor or marine officer will check. If the plate is missing or unreadable, the hull manufacturer or a marine surveyor can usually tell you the rating. Don’t guess. Think about your typical load A boat that runs fine with one person and an empty cooler can feel completely different with four adults, full tanks and a weekend’s worth of gear. If you regularly carry people or heavy equipment, plan toward the upper part of your boat’s rated range so it can get on plane without struggling. Underpowering is a common mistake. An engine that’s working flat out all the time tends to burn more fuel, wear faster, and makes the boat less fun to drive. Match the motor to how you use the boat Dinghies, tenders and small fishing boats: portable tiller outboards are easy to handle, store and service. Jon boats, skiffs and small aluminum boats: mid-range outboards, often with tiller or remote steering depending on the layout. Bay boats, pontoons and family runabouts: mid to high horsepower, usually with remote controls and power trim. Offshore center consoles: high horsepower, and often a twin setup for range and peace of mind. If you fish shallow water or rivers, a jet outboard can be worth a look too. Single or twin? Twins give you redundancy, which matters a lot when you’re far from shore. A single engine is simpler, lighter and usually cheaper to buy and maintain. For most inland and near-shore boating, one correctly sized engine does the job well. Don’t forget the practical details Shaft length: it has to match your transom height. Measure before you order. Steering and controls: tiller, mechanical or hydraulic, and whether your existing controls are compatible. Weight: a heavier motor changes how the boat sits in the water. Propeller: the right prop matters almost as much as the engine. We stock propellers for the major brands. Browse by brand We carry outboards from the big names, so you can compare side by side: Suzuki, Yamaha, Mercury and Tohatsu, plus the full outboard range. Still not sure? Just ask us Send us your boat’s make, model, length and what’s on the capacity plate, and we’ll help you narrow it down. No pressure, just a straight answer. Get a quote  |  WhatsApp Sales  |  Call +1 (872) 293-4196